Letter from Adil - Tripping in Bangkok

Robert Tyabji, Shah Alam

“Our flight from Kuala Lumpur was about two-and-a-half hours late. Everything and everybody festered apart from this one extremely camp but beautiful student from Phuket. We began to talk, enjoying each other’s company till arriving in Bangkok when things began to move mildly mannered. One hour later I was standing in a bus running through slums headed towards the bright lights. Wow, Bangkok!

“I had a toothbrush, lungi, spare T-shirt and a street name. It was night already.

“PLAN A: walk, talk and find a bed.

“PLAN B: hit the bars and find a bed.

“PLAN C: be special and use plastic.

"Eventually (about an hour,) PLAN A worked out. The old nose did the trick and I soon had a single bed tightly wrapped by four walls, inconveniently placed at the top of the central stairwell, middle floor, next to the toilets and bustling central city road. If the hostel and hustling Bangkok tuk-tuks slept, then so could I.

"That night I found a night bazaar, had a beer and watched some bands, went on a ferris wheel ride and chilled out in a food court.

"The following morning, early traffic had me up and walking with the crowds marching to work. We were in the city centre and I spotted a tidy sum five girls chatting. I pursued; across a road (dangerous & daring); into a building lobby (huddled); passed a security guard (uncertain); waiting for lift (ding); then tight squeeze in in in (can't break away now!); giggle giggle giggle to the fifth floor; and then pour out only to be blocked by a security gate. Beyond this point one needed special passes. Upon rapid wave and exit, I looked back and saw that I had walked straight into the city's jewel trade centre.

"A boat trip followed. Then some hours walking, talking smiling and clicking before joining a three-man-strong line of monks. The leader passed & asked “Where you going? Follow me”, I understood. We walked through temples, schools practicing recorder recitals and into little village slums amidst concrete rivers before they pushed into a tiny teashop. I waved goodbye and continued deeper into this shanty world. Incredible!

"One o’clock arrived and I shared the shade offered by a pagoda with a labourer. Every time a truck passed she would spring up.

"Two o’clock arrived with a convincing tuk-tuk driver, Mr. Happy Birthday. He danced and convinced me to part with forty baht in return for a tour of the lucky Buddha, a cloth & jewelry shop (for which I was totally uninterested in) and the giant Buddha. At the lucky Buddha Mr Happy Birthday obnoxious, stifling my freedom to look and talk with others. We had to keep moving and when we arrived at the shop I took one look at its facade and said “Not interested.” He grabbed my forearm, pulling and pushing simultaneously exclaiming "You go in." Three larger Thai men looked aroused and surrounded us. I grabbed his arm and within seconds a scuffle was brewing quickly. Mr Happy Birthday looked like he wanted to thump me; I felt like I wanted to break him but knew that the surrounding men would in turn break me! Quick, unlock arms, sidestep and whip out wallet. His eyes grew for the first time. Mr Happy Birthday stopped, and I passed him half his fee- 20 baht. He was shouting, revving his tuk-tuk and off he went. The surrounding men proceeded to try and sell taxis, tours & sex. Relentless! PHEW!

"Later that night a Nepali shopkeeper explained that many tuk-tuk drivers work with shops on a commission basis. Bring the tourist and receive money! I also learnt that many people talk in English but don’t actually know what they are saying.

"Later I took an excellent Thai massage, beer, dinner, idle chitchat before collapsing to sleep.

"The following day I walked North through the city and its centres - a far nicer experience. This was middle class Bangkok, working, forging their own lives- not scrounging for handouts from tourists. Along the way I met a very interesting Canadian chap who manufactures sportswear for dogs! (Still haven’t met an un-cool Canadian!!) We exchanged contacts.

"Then some more walking before jumping into a taxi and zipping into the airport which this time took just twenty minutes as opposed to two hours on the bus.

"Bangkok is an exciting place to be with many many many things to experience. Check it out!"